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20 August
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记一次转场

沿谷底步行四小时后,山间小径渐渐开阔,我来到山间的一块平地。

这里是众山之交形成的三岔口,三条山沟在此交汇。从清水留给我的草图上看,顺着西北方向那条沟再走不多远便能看到白龙江源,跟着江水走出山谷就是川甘之交的郎木寺了。

三条沟各有一家藏人牧民,我进了其中一顶帐篷讨水喝,在火塘边暖暖身子。再次走出帐篷,眼前浩浩荡荡。

三五十条牦牛走在前面,百十只山羊在后垫队,四条藏獒前后巡查、左右护卫。

原来是一家牧民要出山,转场去郎木寺。

牦牛驮着家什,两个小孩坐在马背上,两三岁大的弟弟从后面抱着哥哥的腰,女人牵着马,男人落在后面拆那黑毡帐篷,一个少年负责赶牛——羊群用不着驱赶,它们的天性就是参与创建和谐社会,然后驯顺地被剪毛剥皮开膛破肚。

大队人马次第进入山沟,少年随手捡起石子追打那些落伍或淘气的小牛,口中发出嗤嗤的喝斥声。那些儿童牛、少年牛、青年牛、早晨八九点钟的太阳牛们倒也有牛劲,总是四处乱窜,不肯就范。相形之下,中年牛老年牛们则已经完全乐天知命,不声不响地只顾朝前走——反正山沟横竖只有一条路,再折腾又能怎样?年轻牛们不懂国情没有大局意识,性高气傲精力旺盛地瞎折腾,到头来还不是与我们走向同一个终点?

山沟中段,遇到姐弟两个牧童赶着几头小牛迎面而来,那女童不过十岁光景,带着六七岁的弟弟使尽浑身解数,不让自家牦牛混进别人家的牛群,那赶牛少年自然也不愿意自家牛群被搅乱队形。于是一时间空中石子乱飞,口哨频响,各有各的方向和主张,让老牛中牛小牛们颇有些无所适从。

变革的时代,每头牛都在牛生路上迁徙;顺流逆流,谁能把握牛类社会发展的方向?这是值得每一个体深思的集体拷问啊!

临近沟口,山势逼仄,石缝间涌出一眼清泉,汇成一潭碧水,然后蜿蜒而出——那就是最终在川北昭化葭萌关前汇入嘉陵江的白龙江了。眼下,它还丝毫没有江的身材与气魄,只是一条清澈而矫健的小溪。牛群噼里啪啦地蹚过江源的浅潭,在山谷间传出隆隆回响,将原本在潭中大声聒噪洗澡玩乐的一群小喇嘛吓得紧贴岩壁避让在一旁。沿着溪流走出山沟,眼前豁然开朗,原来已经到了郎木寺。

新建的郎木寺小学就在沟口不远处,它后面是藏回杂居的村庄:房顶覆着明黄色瓦片的是回人民居,用石块胡乱压着防火板的是藏人房屋。牧人一家在村前涉水过溪,上山去自家的牧场。我坐在溪边的木桩上打尖,看着大队人马浩浩荡荡横跨天堑,不多久便出了状况:

驮家什的一般都是壮年肥牛,但不知怎么搞的,这家人将一部分家什驮在一头小牛背上——大概是管理培训生吧。小伙子刚才一路上默不作声任劳任怨,在过小溪时突然撒开了欢,又蹦又跳,将背上的抽屉箱笼一古脑儿地颠在了河里。正在一旁牵马涉溪的女人吓了一跳,眼睁睁地看着他尽情溅起水花,宣泄青春的活力,却无法扔下马和孩子过去制止。就这么一眨眼的功夫,女人牵着的马不失时机地埋下头在小溪中央饮起水来,不肯再迈一步。女人站在裸露出溪流的石头上,一边试图保持身体平衡,一边使劲拽那马;马背上的两个孩子则好奇地看着培训生,浑不知母亲陷入了何种 困境。

那边厢,男人捧着搭帐篷用的木杆追上了大部队,一边走一边给跟着他的小獒做规矩。那獒很是秉性顽劣,四处乱窜,男人气急,把木杆扔在地上,提着鞭子去赶那獒。一个奔逃,一个死追。那獒毕竟还小,跑着跑着腿一软打个跌瘫倒在地。男人一个箭步赶上,抡起鞭子就抽。那獒仰面朝天哀鸣,趁男人偶一停手,一个翻身赶忙逃走了。

转过眼来,女人终于把马牵过了河,放在山坡上吃草;把孩子抱下了马,任他们在溪边舀水喝;自己去溪中捡起落水的家什,一件件搬到岸边,帮着男人把它们重新绑到那头终于安生下来的小牛身上。

夫妻俩把小牛赶过河,把孩子们抱上马牵着上山。两头大獒一前一后神气地跟着,淘气的小牛无可奈何一步一挨地往坡上蹭。黑的牛群、白的羊群、枣红马、藏獒、男人、女人、少年、孩子,很快都越过了山梁,淡出了视野。

山后面就是他家的牧场了。

望着那回归寂静的溪流与缓坡,我猜想,那男人此时大概在卸家什,或者坐在草场上大口抽烟,孩子肯定在嬉闹玩耍,而女人多半已经马不停蹄地开始给一家人生火做饭了。

辛苦,烦恼,但也很快乐,不是吗?

 
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