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26 January
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传阅:软心记

殳俏

朋友写煮得软到恰到好处的东西,有“汤里的冬瓜,无论是鸡汤还是鸭汤,炖到好处,似有似无,几近雾里看花”。脑海里立刻呈现出的,倒不是他所描绘的冬瓜鸡汤或冬瓜鸭汤,而是家里经常做的火腿冬瓜汤。火腿上方切片放到汤里,与冬瓜同炖,所出成果,乍看依然是一锅清汤,殊不知放了时间这种料下去,往往是悄无声息施魔法。火腿这样的食材,久炖之下,唯香味和咸味传递出去,而一身筋肉,依然保持硬朗风骨。冬瓜则恰恰相反,热气之中,将化未化,吸聚了火腿的鲜气,涨足了汤之淋漓,自己反倒懦弱起来,变成了个说话气若游丝的好好先生。最后这一锅汤端上来,原先的三种食材,早已三体合一,汤为魂,火腿为骨,冬瓜为肤。大家喝着热汤,在赞魂叹骨之余,也怜惜着冬瓜的软。

软和暖,在味觉上,有时是夹缠不清的东西。软是暖的齿感,暖则是软的温感。有些热量很足的东西,给人的感觉不是暖,而是烫,便因为食材是铁骨铮铮的个性。也有些本身要冷吃的食物,却不会给人刺骨的感觉,也是因为,食材够软够温和,那样就不会造成太极端的温度感。

中国人心目中,说到软,第一总会想到豆腐。但其实豆腐是有筋骨的吃食,无论是老豆腐、嫩豆腐、冻豆腐、油豆腐,一个很重要的判断豆腐优劣的标准就是,在火力作用下,无论是蒸还是煮,看这豆腐容不容易散。好的豆腐,虽外表看着柔弱,却久烹不泻。差劲的豆腐,生时看着样子还坚挺,一上灶台,便现了本相,散成屑,碎成渣,一脸的糊塌样。所以说,豆腐之软,诚如中国人心目中软的最高境界:不攻击,却有抵抗;不争执,却有原则;这样的软,不是瘫软,而是气质上的谦和,心底里的慈悲。豆腐就算煮成羹,舀一勺与米饭同吃,也是润物细无声地钻入了饭粒之间的每一个角落,而不是狼狈地四处流窜,这便是豆腐之以柔克刚:一个自由自在的温和派,代表着中国逻辑的中庸之软。

水果中,很多是质地软的,但真正的软还得包括味觉之软。比如某些酸浆果,嚼着绵软,酸味却足以刺激人到眼睛发绿,也就不够达到温润之意。蔡澜先生曾说,熟透的榴莲是最好的牙疼食物。榴莲确是至软之物,但须是熟的,吃到嘴里,口感犹如天然乳脂一般顺滑浓厚,其味道也是润泽的甜。榴莲中的上品,带点醇酒的香,又微微泛点持重的苦,当然柔肠百转,最后还是会回甘。这就是为什么,就算冰冻过的榴莲,吃着仍会给人以温暖的感觉,不过这温暖堆积多了,也会上火。与榴莲一样,以大气稳重之“软”胜出的,还有一样水果,那便是柿子。柿子分软、硬种,两者给人的印象截然不同。我小时候吃软柿子长大,所以至今说到柿子,仍有一腔软浆的甜美心境。柿子成熟时,几近软烂,家里人总给我一把特别小的勺子,把柿子皮朝四个方向,剥成一朵方方正正盛开的花,就用勺子在花心里舀着吃。每一口,都甜得丝丝入扣,软得流光泻玉。但最好玩的,还是在软中找那稀有的脆。每个甜烂的柿子,内里总能拨到二到四个小而扁圆的“瓣”,紧绷绷的,嚼起来生脆弹牙,是柿子之软的点睛之笔。

软的食物,一时说不完。更多时候,软是一种通感,而非简单的质地之软。世人饥肠辘辘之时,总追求“硬菜”,吃肉喝酒,解决欲望必须热辣烫口。但到我们累了,老了,疲乏了,不再敏感而坚持了,甚至麻木到了饥饿感都不太明显的时候,我们都会心心念念着那些“软”的食物。而软,究竟是什么,这问题问谁,都会有不同的答案。而这答案,也只是征兆着每个人心底,本身最柔软的部分。于我而言,软的东西,是海胆、豆腐、芝麻糊、熟透的柿子、热汤里的冬瓜、放在口袋里忘记了的巧克力,以及小孩子的吻。

 
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