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22 May
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传阅:前冰箱时代的年夜饭流程图

黄昱宁

儿时的年夜饭,动手程度之高,远远超过现在的想象。在前超市前冰箱时代,无论是熟菜还是半成品都匮乏,准备一桌好菜不仅需要良好的家庭传统和熟能生巧的经验,也需要细致的人力调配和时间管理。

外婆当然画不出流程图,可她脑子里装着精密的倒计时仪,知道用烧碱发鱿鱼干、让老蚕豆发出芽(炖得酥烂的发芽豆配雪里蕻也是宁波家常菜中的一绝)需要几道工序,从哪一天开始操作;也知道大砂锅里的肉皮肉丸百叶结须得早早准备,才不至于在最后一天占掉水槽和油锅的宝贵空间。最后两天,碗橱辟出越来越多的地盘放自制的半成品,比如用水煮过一道、等待酱烧的鸭子,煎炸完毕等待再加工的青鱼块,以及制作八宝饭不可或缺的豆沙(这可是用赤豆煮烂以后用纱布一层层滤净的纯手工制品)、红丝绿丝和瓜子仁。这时候外婆不仅得照看厨房进度,还得留一个心眼防备几个被香味勾引出整整一年馋虫的孙子孙女——那几天,我们有事没事老爱绕着碗橱走。 Read more…